1. I remove the hardware from the door and the door from the jamb. I move it to a set of padded saw horses, usually in a garage or some covered area on site. A covered area is recommend so that direct sunlight will not affect the refinishing process. I typically cover the exposed entryway with a tarp (if you have pets it would be best to keep them away from this area).
  2. I mask off any glass and apply a chemical stripper to the door. I then remove the original sealant and stain with a variety of abrasives.
  3. Once I am satisfied this step 2 I begin the sanding procedure. Most of this is done by hand as I prefer those results.The different stages of sanding depend on the color the customer has chosen and the wood grain pattern of the door. Sometimes I will use a 4 grade process though in most cases a 3 grade process is recommended.
  4. Once I am satisfied with step 3 I apply the stain with a foam brush and remove the excess with a stain pad. This is my preferred method as it leaves no brush strokes and generally produces an even coat of stain. I allow the stain to dry for a half hour as recommended by the product manufacturer.
  5. Once the stain has set I apply a deep penetrating top coat with a foam brush. The top coat I use is what I like to call my “secret weapon.” This isn’t your typical poly urethane or spar varnish and in my experience the absolute best product of it’s kind for this kind of application. This product retains a matte finish when dry and dries very quickly, allowing maximum protection from the elements almost immediately.
  6. Once the top coat is completely dry I unmask the door, rehang it and reattach the hardware. The entire process can take anywhere from 4-6 hours depending on the door in question. The end result is a healthy, beautiful door that will withstand battery from the elements.


This process is the same as above, minus the need for a 3 or 4 grade sanding process because in this case it is unnecessary.


  1. I will lightly clean the surface of the garage doors to remove dust and debris, but allow the original pigment to stay mostly intact. This is important to the resurfacing process because the pigmented sealant I use is semi-transparent.
  2. I mask off any areas where unwanted pigment could reach.
  3. I apply a generous amount of the pigmented sealant. To achieve the best possible results it is recommended that this be done in the least amount of direct sun as possible, so I prefer to start these jobs very early in the morning. The sealant will be dry to the touch in a matter of hours (customers will be able to open and close the doors) but does not properly cure for up to 72 hours. It is therefore recommended to no allow sprinklers to hit the doors for the the duration of the product cure time.